Have you ever holidayed in Japan, and, mid-way through a shrine visit or a shopping spree, realized that you’re in desperate need of some new crockery? Maybe you’re on the lookout for some ironware? Or one of those fancy, super-sharp Japanese knives you’ve heard about? Then you might as well pop down to Tokyo’s Kitchen Town, otherwise known as Kappabashi-dori (合羽橋).
What is Kappabashi-dori?
The origin of the name Kappabashi-dori has a few explanations. A 19th century merchant known as Kappa Kawatarou (合羽川太郎), or Kappaya Kihachi (合羽屋喜八), worked in the area as a raincoat and umbrella maker. The word for raincoat in Japanese is kappa (合羽). The area was a basin with poor drainage, so it suffered from a lot of flooding. Kawatarou started a project to construct drainage ditches using his own finances, thus preventing further floods. Embankments and a pedestrian bridge were also built.
Kappabashi-dori today primarily caters to Tokyo’s bustling restaurant trade. You can find anything, from kitchen utensils to ovens, tables and chairs, as well as decorations. We’re not kidding – there’s so much to see in the numerous shops up and down the street. Even if you’re not planning on fitting out a kitchen, there are plenty of souvenirs to be had. You can also find a lot of Japanese plastic display-food here, known as shokuhin sampuru (食品サンプル). You might have seen these in restaurant displays across Japan.
A wild Kappa appears!
As well as its numerous culinary wares and items for the kitchen, Kappabashi-dori is also famous for its mascot. The word kappa is also a homophone for a frog-like creature from Japanese folklore. Kappa are yōkai (妖怪), or demons, and there are many tales of kappa attacking humans in rivers, trying to pull their organs out through their anuses. However, they are sometimes depicted as friendly and like eating cucumbers.
As mentioned before, the name for Kappabashi-dori likely comes from Kappa Kawatarou. Another version of the story is that the friendly kappa living in the Sumida River helped to complete his mighty drainage project. It is said that those businesses that witnessed the kappa at work went on to have great success. Because of this, the shops in the area have adopted the watery kappa as their mascot. There are numerous cute versions on shop signs and advertising around the area. There’s also a rather strange, realistic golden statue, in an alcove on the main road…
The nearby Sōgenji Temple (曹源寺) has the common name Kappa-dera (かっぱ寺), and Kappa Kawatarou is buried there. The temple supposedly has a mummified kappa hand, and locals often make offerings of cucumbers.
In conclusion, if you’re looking for some new cutlery, dishes or kitchenware, Kappabashi-dori is a great stop-off. It’s only a few minutes walk from Asakusa and Ueno. The nearest station is on the Ginza Line, Tawaramachi Station (田原町駅). While it may not rank high as a tourist destination for many, it’s still unique enough to warrant a visit.
A Japan-enthusiast from the UK, with a particular interest in history and the language, as well as cycling, writing and rock climbing.
