With the heavy rain and the bad weather abating, I’m finally ready to head off cycling to Cape Sata, the southernmost point in Japan. Setting out from Ibusuki the day after the storm, I make my way westwards at first to Lake Unagi and Lake Ikeda. From the shore of the latter, you have a spectacular view of Mount Kaimon, the volcano nearby. It’s said that a saurian lake monster named Issie lives there, just as Nessie does at Loch Ness. Next, after a quick stop at the port for some katsudon, I take the ferry back to Nejime on the other side of Kagoshima Bay.
The journey to Sata
Stocking up at the last konbini I’ll see for several days, I start the journey south towards the cape. It’s a very hilly ride, with lots of steep inclines, but ending with a very fun decline all the way into Odomari. This is where I’m camping for the night, by the beach. It’s a lovely spot at sunset, with a great view of the coastline. One thing I’ve noticed about campsites in Japan is that everyone packs up and leaves at daybreak. Waking at 6.15am the next day, I find I’m the only one with a tent still up. It becomes clear why fifteen minutes later, when gardeners and workmen show up, and patiently wait around for me to leave. Now I know why the campsites are always so miraculously clean. As soon as I’m packed up, I head for the cape, about five kilometers up some steep hills. Not a fun workout first thing in the morning.
Cape Sata has some great viewing spots, and walking a few hundred meters to the observatory, you can see the southernmost point up close. Very scenic. After taking a few photos, I start the journey east towards Kishira, 60km away on the southern coast. Compared to the 75km journey from Kirishima to Kamikawa, this is a much more painful day. There’s no coastal road there, so I’m headed inland, through the mountains before winding back oceanside.
A punishing route to Kishira
A lot of hills, constant ascending with minor descents. Much of the time I’m simply pushing the bike along by the side of the road, my legs tired out by the cape earlier on. A lot of water breaks and snacking are a requirement. This is my day, with two exceptions – two very long stretches on the descent, each one about 10km long. It almost makes up for the hills. Well, almost. Though from here it should be a bit flatter on the coastal roads, it’s made it clear that I need to lose some weight from the panniers soon. Several times I consider giving up the bikepacking and becoming a credit card cycle tourist instead.
After several hours under the beating sun, I make it to Kishira. It’s a beautiful small town with a stunning coast and a lot of small-scale farms. I’m staying with a WarmShowers host here for two days.
A Japan-enthusiast from the UK, with a particular interest in history and the language, as well as cycling, writing and rock climbing.
